Rome · 76 places

Mangiare a Roma

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How Romans eat: notes from the guide
  • In Lecce, start the day standing at a bar with a pasticciotto (a cream-filled shortcrust tart) and a rustico (puff pastry with béchamel, mozzarella, tomato and black pepper).
  • Try an espressino freddo at Avio, and gelato flavors based on local sweets (pasticciotto, mustazzolo) at Natale.
  • On the coast, order crudi (raw seafood) and, in season, sea urchins scooped up with bread.
  • At Super Mago del Gelo, pay at the register first. Each granita comes with two flavors; try gelso nero and mandorla.
  • Some Salento trattorie close in the afternoon; L'Orecchietta serves lunch, then reopens until 8 PM.
  • At a trattoria you don't need every course, but order two or three per person (an antipasto, a secondo and a contorno, or a primo then a secondo) so the kitchen isn't firing single plates.
  • Pizza tonda is thin, crisp and chewy with barely any rim. Forni sell pizza bianca and rossa by weight; try bianca stuffed with mortadella.
  • Street food is eaten standing, leaning or perched for a minute before moving on.
  • At markets, say "buongiorno" when you walk up and "grazie, arrivederci" when you leave. Ask "posso?" before touching produce, and use one bag per product.
  • Gelato has less air and less fat than ice cream and is served slightly warmer. Look for seasonal fruit sorbetti.

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